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Coastal hydromorphodynamics: monitoring and modelling

Keywords: remote sensing, video monitoring, hydrodynamic codes, sediment transport, coastal evolution.
Fig. 1. Wave Basin at DICAM (Author: Renata Archetti)
Fig. 2. Wave-generated nearshore currents from coupled TOMAWAC - TELEMAC-2D runs (Author: Achilleas Samaras)
Fig. 3. Surface currents and vertical profiles of a 3D wave-hydrodynamic – coupled model (TELEMAC 3D) (Author: M. Gabriella Gaeta)

Coastal morphology evolution in the nearshore is crucial for beach management and inland protection. Assessment is performed using in-situ monitoring and numerical modelling. Due to the characteristics of both the approaches an integrated use of them is preferred.

DICAM has a consolidated experience in the development of technologies (instrumentation, software etc.) for the hydrodynamics and morphodynamics monitoring both in laboratory (Fig.1) and in the field. Complex, integrated wave-current-sediment numerical models that simulate near-shore processes and wavestructure interaction have been also used and developed.

Remote monitoring of coastal conditions is a fast growing application of information technology. Video camera systems provide a potentially rich source of information on the state of the coastal zone. DICAM since 2003 has installed several video stations in Italy in order to analyse and monitor coastal morphodynamics. Ongoing studies includes: shoreline detection, beach evolution, volume changes; bar location, morphology; Times series, trends analyses; Near shore hydrodynamics 3D hydrodynamic. Moreover DICAM owns several acoustic instruments to measure current velocity waves and water levels. Several surveys have been carried out in order to measure: turbulence in the surf and in the swash zone, velocity profiles and waves in presence of coastal defence structures.

Coastal hydro-/morpho-dynamic models are applied to describe morphological evolution in 1D, 2D and 3D, in the presence of engineering works (e.g. groynes, breakwaters, entrance channels. Activities are based on the use of several codes: 2DH MIKE21, Telemac Mascaret, both for wave, hydrodynamics (Fig.2) and sediment transport simulation; the coastal evolution model (Litpack); the 2DV model IH2-VOF, developed by the University of Cantabria, and the 3D hydrodynamic models TELEMAC-3D and OPENFOAM (Fig. 3).

Main publications

Archetti, R., Paci, A., Carniel, S., and Bonaldo, D. 2016: Optimal index related to the shoreline dynamics during a storm: the case of Jesolo beach, Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci., 16, 1107- 1122, doi:10.5194/nhess-16-1107-2016, 2016.

Gaeta, M. G., Samaras, A. G., Federico, I., and Archetti, R. 2016: A coupled wave-3D hydrodynamics model of the Taranto Sea (Italy): a multiple- nesting approach, Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci. Discuss., doi:10.5194/nhess-2016-95

Villatoro M., Silva R., Mendez F.J., Zanuttigh B., Pan S., Trifonova E., Losada I. J., Izaguirre C., Simmonds D., Reeve D., Mendoza E., Martinelli L., Galiatsatou P. & P. Eftimova, P. 2014. Flooding and Erosion at Open Beaches in a Changing Climate, Coastal Eng., 87, 50-76, Elsevier.

Taramelli A., Valentini E., Cornacchia L., Mandrone S., Monbaliu J., Hoggart S., Thompson R. & B. Zanuttigh, 2014. Modelling uncertainty in estuarine system by means of combined approach of optical and radar remote sensing. Coastal Eng., 87, 218-239, Elsevier.

Zanuttigh, B., Formentin, S. M. & R. Briganti. 2013. A Neural Network for the prediction of wave reflection from coastal and harbour structures, Coastal Engineering, 80, 49-67, Elsevier.

Martinelli, L. & B. Zanuttigh, N. De Nigris & M. Preti, 2011. Geosynthetic barriers for coastal protection along the Emilia Romagna littoral, Northern Adriatic Sea, Italy. Geotextiles and Geomembranes, 29, 370-380, Elsevier.

Carniel S., Sclavo M., Archetti R. 2011. Towards validating a last generation, integrated wavecurrent- sediment numerical model in coastal regions using video measurements. Oceanological and hydrobiological studies. 40 (4), 11 - 20.

Archetti, R. and Romagnoli, C. 2011, Analysis of the effects of different storm events on shoreline dynamics of an artificially embayed beach. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms. doi: 10.1002/esp.2162.

Liang Q., Wang Y., Archetti R.. 2010. A Well- Balanced Shallow Flow Solver for Coastal Simulations. International journal of offshore and polar engineering. 20 (1), 41 - 47.

Archetti R. & Zanuttigh B. 2010. Integrated monitoring of the hydro-morphodynamics of a beach protected by low crested detached breakwaters. Coastal Engineering 57, (10), 879-891.

Archetti R. 2009. Study of the evolution of a beach protected by low crested structures using video monitoring. Journal of Coastal Research . 25(4). 884 – 899.

Lamberti, A. & B. Zanuttigh, 2009. Low crested breakwaters, in Coastal and Ocean Engineering handbook, World Scientific, 601-632.

Research projects

EU-FP7-ENV2009-1 ID 244104 Project: THESEUS. Innovative technologies for safer European coasts in a changing climate. www.theseusproject.eu

EVK3 - CT-2001-0054 COASTVIEW: Developing coastal video monitoring systems in support of coastal management.

EVK3 - CT-2000-0041: DELOS. Environmental Design of Low Crested Coastal Defence Structures

National project supported by the Italian Ministry of University and Research. Project: RITMARE. www.ritmare.it/en

PON01 2823. Sviluppo di Tecnologie per la Situational Sea Awareness. http://tessa.linksmt.it/

INTERREG IIIc Beachmed-e La gestione strategica della difesa dei litorali per uno sviluppo sostenibile delle zone costiere del Mediterraneo. 2005-2008. www.beachmed.it.

Research contracts funded by ARPA Emilia Romagna on Coastal defence in Igea Marina, Foce Reno, Cesenatico.

ASI Agenzia Spaziale Italiana. Progetto CoastSat. Coste: Monitoraggio e gestione del rischio.